At my most joyous, my saddest, my most frustrated and at my most serene, nothing has been there longer for me than the ocean except my mother. Equal parts mistress, best friend, lover, confidante and reality check, the ocean has treated me like a sea side cliff. It’s had its hand into shaping the way I am, the way I see life and all the existential ponderings that came natural to me after almost drowning twice.
But through it all, the scrapes, bruises, spankings and close calls, the ocean has always been there for me. It’s the place where I can truly see how many voices are rambling in my brain as I soothe and sort the chatter to get back to balance. Ask most any surfer and they’ll tell you that at least once, surfing has helped them cope with some traumatic situation in life. In my case, it’s been a couple of times and it’s been more than just a few issues.
To be brutally honest, if it weren’t for surfing, writing and music, I’d have cracked a long time ago. Instead I’m able to channel energies in different lights so as not to damn the emotional well that is my soul.
moving day! - With many thanks to all who have followed Ad Broad over the years, I invite you to follow me to my new virtual office at helenkleinross.com where I'll be ...
1 year ago